Installing the subfloor
I started laying subfloor, driving screws quickly and easily with my new drive guide.
Pull sleeve over screw…
Put it on the subfloor…
Drive the screw until the impact clutch kicks in. Couldn’t be easier!
I carried on laying subfloor, occasionally making measurements and cuts for floor registers or end pieces.
When I got close to the closet, I had to contend with the trim. It went down to the old subfloor, but I needed to get this new subfloor (and eventually the laminate flooring) underneath it.
I accomplished this with a scrap piece of OSB and a reversible flush-cut saw.
The OSB can now fit perfectly under the trim.
I finished laying the new subfloor while The Boss looked over my work.
After all of that crawling and screwing, I was feeling a little screwy myself!
Installing the underlayment
Handan and I then installed the underlayment – a padded layer that adds comfort, noise suppression and acts as a moisture barrier. Pergo Gold underlayment comes with self-adhesive strips along one edge to join pieces together. In the closet, where we had to make a bunch of cuts to make it fit, I used aluminum foil tape to join the pieces of underlayment.
Installing the laminate flooring
Installing laminate flooring really is easy. They’ve designed the stuff to be pretty foolproof (and I’m always up to play the fool who tests these things!)
We bought a laminate floor installation kit that came with a mallet, tapping block, spacer and knee pads. We first set up the spacers along the walls. The spacers ensure that the floating laminate floor will have enough room to expand and contract throughout the seasons.
By the way, do you have gaps in your laminate or engineered floor due to seasonal humidity fluctuations? There’s an easy fix for that, and I’ll show you how you can Do it Yourself in my DIY Floor Gap Fixer post!
We started laying the boards in the corner to the left of the window opposite the door. When we reached the end of the first row, I cut the board to fit.
When starting a new row, we staggered the joints at least 8 inches, which is the minimum Pergo recommends.
For the first 4 rows, we didn’t worry about keeping the flooring snug against the back wall. The underlayment is slippery, and the interlocked flooring wanted to slide. It was easier to get a few rows done and then slide the whole piece back into place. To minimize movement after pushing the floor back, we put a few unopened boxes of flooring on it to weigh it down. After a few more rows, the floor weighed enough to stay in place.
The interlocking system the Pergo (and others) has is pretty neat. They lock together with a modified tongue and groove system. Here is the grooved edge.
And from the side…
This is the tongue side.
To join two boards, you simply insert the tongue side at an angle…
And press down.
The boards are locked together.
They can still be tapped to move along that joint to close any end gaps.
We continued laying boards in this manner – Handan would mark the boards, and I would run down to the basement to cut each one and then back upstairs to install it. What a workout!
We had our system: measure, mark, cut, lay, repeat.
That gap between the boards can then be closed with a mallet and tapping block or pull bar. The pull bar is used for boards up against the wall like the one shown above.
When we got towards the closet and the door, things got a little tricky. I needed to make a lot of custom cuts with the jigsaw to fit around trim and the closet opening.
The transition strip was complicated…
But once I got the cuts right, it fit right in its place.
We secured it in place with heavy duty double-sided tape…just in case we need to replace it someday.
I reinstalled the baseboard, and then we added some quarter-round, not only because it looks great, but so the floor will have even more room to expand and contract.
Okay! I think that’s more than enough for now, don’t you? That was a lot of work, but we’re so happy with how the craft room makeover is coming along!
Let’s take a look at the room with its freshly-painted walls, ceiling and trim and its brand new laminate floor!
(We also hung the curtain rods, but that’s another post!)
If you’re following along with the craft room makeover, here’s how we stand:
Craft Room Makeover Checklist
Craft room ideas and laying out the game plan Paint the walls, ceiling and trim Paint the French door Carpet removal Install laminate flooring
- DIY craft table for Cricut
- Buy curtains and install curtain rods
- DIY / buy a computer desk
- DIY Closet makeover
- DIY Industrial Bookcase (West Elm Inspired)
- Craft room makeover reveal
Click here to see more craft room makeover posts as we continue to cross items off our checklist!
What do you think of the new wall color and new floor? Let us know in the comments!